Origination: E-dohicky the Electronic Interlingual rendition of Russ's Laser Power Meter Dohicky

Laser power tool.

e-dohicky is the electronic interlingual rendition of the dohicky from Russ SADLER. Russ sensate the very respectable SarbarMultimedia youtube channel

https://www.youtube.com/look out?v=A-3HdVLc7nI&t=281s

Russ SADLER presents an unproblematic and cheap accessory to measure the power of a laser in the 'RDWorks Learning Lab 53'

Hera is a description of an electronic, version who automaticaly show the power afterwards the exposure.

Here
is the description of an electronic version which indicates mechanically the power.

The function begins as described by Russ Sadler. It is necessary to commence by choosing an exposure time among 3 proposed by Russ, 10.25, 20.5 or 41 seconds with patterns supplied by Russ. It is and then enough to press on the button bulge of the e-dohicky and to start the laser.

Russ created 3 patterns for 3 exposure times, 10.25, 20.5 and 41 seconds. You will choose the duration which corresponds to the power of your laser. More the laser is powerful shorter testament beryllium the exposure time. Earlier beginning a measure, IT to Tell is necessary in e-dohicky which bequeath be the exposure time. It is simply made via the setup blind.

The e-doHICky is created with an Arduino pro miniskirt so it's easily to create your possess.

Bill incarnate:

- 1 x Russ's dohicky

- 1 x very precise NTC MC65F103A( http://World Wide Web.mouser.atomic number 4/Look/ProductDetail.aspx?R=... ) ( just about 6€) https://World Wide Web.mouser.com/ds/2/18/AAS-920-306C-NTC-T... Oregon find 'MC65F103A' on Mouser, Digikey, or in your facvorite store.

- 1 x TL431B ( http://World Wide Web.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Texas-Instrume... ) ( about 1.5€ )

operating theatre find 'TL431B' on Mouser, Digikey, or in your facvorite computer memory.

- 1 x Arduino miniskirt pro 3,3V or 5V ( or equivalent ) ( about 5€)

- 1 x Organic light-emitting diode SSD1306 display (or equivalent ) ( about 5€)

- 1 x DS18B20 ( about 1€)

- 1 x step up takeoff booster 0.9V-5V->5V ( https://www.banggood.com/5Pcs-District of Columbia-Direct current-0_9V-5V-USB-O... )

or ( https://www.banggood.com/5Pcs-PFM-Ascertain-DC-D.C.-0... )

or ( https://www.banggood.com/5pcs-Mini-DC-DC-0_8-5V-T... )

or ( https://www.banggood.com/Miniskirt-DC-DC-0_8-3_3V-To-D... )

( about 5€)

- 1 x bell ( http://www.tme.eu/nut/katalog/?fine art=LD-BZEG-0905 ) or equivalent ( about 1€)

- 1 x transistor BSS138 operating theatre equivalent ( http://www.tme.europium/en/katalog/?art=BSS138-FAI ) ( about 0.01€)

- 1 x resistor 100 R smd 1206 ( about 0.01€)

- 1 x resistance 10K smd 1206 ( about 0.01€)

- 1 x resistance 10K 0,1% smd 1206 ( around 0.2€)

- 3 x capacitor 0,1uF smd 1206 ( 3 x about 0.5€)

- 3 x capacitor 10uF smd C ( 6032-28 ) ( 3 x about 1.5€)

- some normal pins head

- 1 x switch about like this : ( http://www.mouser.live/ProductDetail/Apem/25136NAH6... )

OR ( HTTP://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/switches-and-indicat... ( about 0.5€ )

- 1 x PCB ( about 2€ ? ) The PCB is now available at EasyEda: https://easyeda.com/danielroibert/dohicky-73d71ba...

- 2 x Neodymium magnets ( https://www.banggood.com/20-PCS-Extraordinary-Ground-Neodymi... ) ( 1.28€ )

IF Arduino 3,3V

- 1 x 3,3V regulator : AP2210N-3.3TRG1 or equivalent weight ( just about 0.4€)

- 1 x capacitor 0,1uF smd 1206

- 1 x condenser 10uF smd C ( 6032-28 )

Beaver State directly that ( https://WWW.banggood.com/Miniskirt-DC-DC-0_8-3_3V-To-D... )

For 5V Arduino, coiffure non people the 3.3V regulator and shorting jump happening PCB.

Totally the files can make up downloaded below.

There is 4 resources type :

- C programme for Arduino.

- Sketchup, stl and DXF files for case fictile laser cuting and some 3D pieces.

- PCB files. ( likewise available past EasyEda )

- Instructions, pictures and videos.

This project is open and IT's possible to heighten it. It's the ordinal interpretation and all your idea are welcome :-)

Information technology's easy to make simplified version.

I'm working happening a version of the case with a naif mecanical switch cuted in acrylic. (A simple slide WHO separate the doorway with the magnets and the bombardment.)

Thank-you :-)

Step 1: Order the Pcb on EasyEda

The pcb is now exoteric on EasyEda:

https://easyeda.com/danielroibert/dohicky-73d71ba5...

Or, make it yourself with the Eagle's .brd file attached.

Step 2: Assembling PCB

Put the right component at the right place in the right management. I desire the pictures will help enough for that.

I'l try to put more details as shortly as possible, depending of yours questions.

The connective of the SSD1306 have to be a a couple of shortened ( about 2 mm) to fit in the case.

The DS18B20 is soldered by an about 3,5 cm 3 wires. It will be attached in the mind the likes of in the picture.

Maltreat 3: Assembling PCB Oled Polarity

For the SSD1306, there is two sign type. The jumpers help you to
put back the right polarity for your ain SSD1306. Simply poor the jump with a hardly a solder.

Step 4: Collection PCB If 5V Arduino or With an 3.3V Step-awake Convertor.

If you use a 5V Arduino, you dont need the 3.3V regulator. And so simply non populate the 3 components, and short the jump with solder. ( the good SSD1306 tooshie work with 3,3V and 5V)

If you function a 3.3V step-in the lead convertor you dont need the 3.3V regulator. Then simply not populate the 3
components, and shortsighted the jump with solder. ( the good SSD1306 can work with 3,3V and 5V)

Step 5: Temperature Accuracy

There is one extraordinary functioning:

I wanted to include a rather precise measure of the absolute temperature. To arrive there, I used a very good NTC dig into and a TL431 as a reference of exact tension. It is not maybe all important, but if you can do the sizable things, you can do the little things as well. ( It's necesary for be amended than the 0,3°C required for 10.25s photo) Arduino is accoutered with one ATmega328P which has a voltage cite entry for the ADC. In brief is on the pivot 20. Unfortunately, this pin is not available on the connector of the Arduino miniskirt pro. Information technology's relatevoly esay to solder one telegraph along this pin. I prefered solder the wire on the capacitor near the pin 13 of the external connector. The wire need to be soldered on the PCB as show on the picture.

If you thing that information technology's not necessary to get an as good accuracy, you can forget the TL431 ( the 100R resistor and the two capacitors) and the wire. It's also necesary to remove two lignes in the program :

- at around line 12

#define VREF2495 2495

shift to

#define VREF2495 3300 ( for 3.3V )

operating theatre

#define VREF2495 5000 ( for 5V )

- In the frame-up() function:

remove the

analogReference(EXTERNAL) ;

Maltreat 6: Preparing 3D Printed Pieces

Afterward removing the impression defects, line up holes to 2.5mm

Step 7: Preparing 3D Printed Pieces

Make duds into all 2.5 holes previousely adjusted.

Step 8: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle. Cut-in the Addict

Step 9: Preparing the Dohicky's Schnozzle. Reinforcement Ring

Step 10: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle.

Ill-use 11: Preparing NTC

This is unrivalled delicate step out ! ( take your time for do it )

Hither is the NTC

Cut the ii wires of the NTC at variant length.

Get a few nonconductor atomic number 14 from a electric cable. One of about 5 cm ( AWG 22 ) and one of 8 mm ( AWG 18 )

Stick in the cable system's NTC into the 5 cm silicon.

Solder the NTC to an virtually 10 cm thin cable and isolated it with heat shrink tube.

Step 12: Aggregation NTC in Dohicky

Put a few thermal spread on the NTC.
Insert the NTC artful down the dohicky.

Step 13: Assembling NTC in Dohicky (next)

Add a 8 mm * 2.5 mm ( AWG 18) silicon tube or equivalent soft ahead the screw then tight gently the turnkey.
The silicon (or wooly thing) is for not break the NTC when tight then screw.

Step 14: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle.

Step 15: Preparing the Dohicky's Schnozzle. Insert Dohicky

Put in the thin cables through the 3D printed 'dohicky' sustenanc.

Insert the dohicky in the 3D written 'dohicky' support then gas-tight the screw

Step 16: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle.

Tight gently the screw, just for keep the NTC's cable in place, only to keep off that the cable moves.

Tread 17: Shorten SSD1306's Pines

Reduce the pins from most 3 mm.

Step 18: The Case

Hera are the files for make over the vitrine.

The case is to lasercut in Acrylic 3mm. There is 3 pieces who need to be 3D printed.

I ill-used 2 litle 2,9mm*7mm magnets for battery character. ( https://www.banggood.com/20-PCS-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnets-N50-7mm-Diameter-x-3mm-Heaviness-p-940975.html?rmmds=search)

You can use differents magnets, but you need then to change the holes size.

The dore have to be glued. Call for tending about the orientation. The hole make to glucinium by the bottom as demonstrate in the picture.

Take railway car or so the predilection of the attraction support, the hole have to be by the botton right.

I'l add steps for aggregation all that.

I hope you have sketchup ( V8 or greater ) for watch all details.

Step 19: The Case : Glue the Threshold With Switch.

Hera is the steps for glue the door.

deal tutelage about the orientation of the pieces.

Mind to non put to much glue on the last pieces. the 'switch' set mustiness keep moving on the slot.

Step 20: The Case : Electric Wire With Attracter.

The 'switch' must be advantageously able to pass supra the attractor.

Step 21: The Case: General View

Take out care to the legs

Ill-trea 22: The Case: Battery Older

First, curb the right orientations of the 3 pieces.

Step 23: The Case: Barrage Older Fix Attracter and Wire.

Tighten the magnet and the red electric wire.

Step 24: The Case: Hole Magnet and Telegraph to the Door.

Fasten the attractive feature and the black electric wire.

Step 25: The Case : Full Collecting

- Weld the red wire in the + to the PCB and the black wire in the ground, depending on the type of your power converter.

- Connect the douhicky's NTC and the DS18B20

- Then assemble the eccentric

Footfall 26: Program for the Arduino

The sketch habituate a some standards librarys. There is one special for the SSD1306. I dont use the frequent ace because the one I use is faster. This library is the one from Alexey Dynda.

Afterwards added the SSD1306's Alexey Dynda library, you can upload the sketch to the Arduino.

This externalise is not for dummies then I take over that you know how to load a sketch in an Arduino mini pro.

The sketch can figure out with others Arduino, then you can use it with an Arduino Uno.

Step 27: User Guide

The e-dohicky can comprise in 3 differents mode.

- Idle style

- Run mode

- Setup fashion

On that point is only one button and you can make operations with 'normal push' or 'long push'. A long push is 1 second foresighted.

After mogul dormie, the e-dohicky is in 'idle mode'.

- In this mode you bathroom read the dohicky's temperature, the board's temperatur and the actual exposition's time.

It's important to set the conservative 'exposition's time' according to the exposition time kick in the Russ's patern, 10.25, 20.5 or 41 secondes.

Before start a mesure, hinderance if the 'exposition's time' is correctly situated.

Set the right 'exposition's sentence':

- The e-dohicky make to be in 'slothful modal value'. ( if not, 'long press' for back to 'idle mode' )

- make a 'all-night press'.

- then 'normal press' for loop until you chose the right sentence.

- When you see the honourable time, name a 'long press'.

- The e-dohicky save your prime and spine to the 'idle mode'

In 'unused mood' the e-dohicky compare the dohicky's temperature and the room's temperatur.

The difference between both can non cost more than 3 or 4 degrees. If the diffference is bigger, then an alert substance is displayed and it's impossible to start a mesure.

When all is right, you can start a mesure.

Make a mesure :

- You normaly need to load the right Russ's patern in your laser machine.

- You can then start a mesure aside adjure the e-dohicky's button and start the laser machine.

- Keep the dohicky in the laser accordant with the Russ video explanations.

When the laser is stoping the exposition, the e-dohicky is mechanically waiting the end of the raising of temperature, then make a beep and establish the measured power in Watts. This can necessitate some seconds ( about 5 to 10 or more depending of the conditions )

After reading the power, you bottom back to the 'idle mode' with a 'long press'.

At this meter, the e-dohicky will belik evince an alert fot the dohicky temperature is to high.

You have then to get cold the dohicky as explained in Russ' video :-)

After that, the e-dohicky is ready for the succeeding mesure.

- If you have to stop a mesure run, just 'long press', then the e-dohicky proceed noncurrent to 'idle musical mode'.

Special alert:

There is a special alert if the dohicky's temperature is growing to 70°C or more. In this case, you have to power inactive the e-dohicky and get cold the dohicky to a 'normal' temperature.

Step 28: Take Care About the Electrice Spikes

My simple machine is rather badly assembled and the high-power cable passes along the tube. It entraine a dispersal of the high-electromotive force spikes at the ignition system of the tube. The e-dohicky is an electronic device and he give the axe be rattled past information technology. I noticed that the e-dohicky sometimes makes a reset when I meter the power at the exit of the tube. The problem does not arise when I measure the power happening the other side of meat, nearthe raiseable head. On that point are several manners to mitigate this problem. Cardinal manners is to armor the utmost-voltage cable. We can either, make get across the cable by the inside of the machine, or it armor with a piece of sheet of aluminum linked with the ground of the political machine, an former way is to colligate the dohicky with the ground of the machine.

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